民國時期官府菜探討 －以譚延闓與譚祖任為例;A Study of Officials’ Cuisine in Republican China—Cases of Tan Yan-Kai and Tan Zu-Ren

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题名:	民國時期官府菜探討－以譚延闓與譚祖任為例;A Study of Officials’ Cuisine in Republican China—Cases of Tan Yan-Kai and Tan Zu-Ren
作者:	蕭玫玲;LING,HSIAO MEI
贡献者:	歷史研究所
关键词:	官府菜;譚家菜;譚廚;譚延闓;譚祖任;Officials’Cuisine;TanCuisine;Tan Chef;Tan Yan-Kai;Tan Zu-Ren
日期:	2016-07-15
上传时间:	2016-10-13 14:50:15 (UTC+8)
出版者:	國立中央大學
摘要:	飲食藝術一直是中華文化中，廣被世人稱道的一項歷史傳承。被稱為第九大菜系的官府菜，無疑是璀璨耀目的一頁。官府菜融合高超精緻烹調廚藝與風雅趣緻文化底蘊，加上時間淬煉與傳承，官府菜已超脫飲食充饑層次，進入更高深美學與藝術境界，展現中國菜登峰造極境界。中國飲饌烹調，經過各朝代演進與改良，在明清時期，更上一層樓，成為飲食文化的風華盛世，為民國時期官府菜奠定基礎。本研究透過各種史料的分析，探討民國時期「譚廚」與「譚家菜」之產生與影響，並以兩大美食家譚延闓與譚祖任為例，建構民國時期飲食文化與當時政治、社會連結的脈絡，並擴及探討明清精緻奢華飲食風氣對民國時期官府菜影響、明清飲膳書籍盛行、珍貴食材燕窩、魚翅、鮑魚的歷史與烹調。官府私房菜需經過數十年甚至上百年的家學淵源與自身鑽研，始能形成一門獨特經驗心得傳與後人。「譚廚」與「譚家菜」皆有用料名貴、作工精細、色形其美的特色，兩大官府菜皆見證從民國到現代權貴菁英奢華飲食與時代的更迭，不受時間淘汰，足以證明官府菜的魅力與特色，於現今競爭激烈的餐飲業，擁有一席之地。 ;The culinary arts have always been a treasured tradition in Chinese culture. Officials’ Cuisine, known as the ninth major cuisine,has occupied a glorious page in the history of China. Itis an integration of superb refined cooking and elegant elements of Chinese culture. With the passage of time, Officials’ Cuisine is no longer an ordinary style of cooking, but has moved into the stage of aesthetics, and become the symbol of perfection in culinary arts. Chinese drink, food and cooking, through evolution and improvement during various dynasties, in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, had ascended the next level and become the elegant heyday of food culture, laid the foundation for official cuisine in the period of Republican China.This study, through the analysis of various historical data, explores the generation and the impact of "Tan chef" and "Tan cuisine" in the period of Republican China, and takes two major gourmets Yan-Kai Tan and Zu-Ren Tan for example, constructs the context linking the food culture, the politics and society in the period of Republican China, and expands to explore the influence of the Ming and Qing refined luxury diet fashion on official cuisine in the period of Republican China, the prevalence of the Ming and Qing books about drinking and meal, history and cooking of precious food ingredients bird′s nest, shark′s fin and abalone. Official private home-style cuisine need pass through several decades or even centuries of family history and their own research, before it can form a unique experience pass on to their future generations. "Tan chef" and "Tan cuisine" are characterized by precious materials, fine workmanship, beautiful color and shape. The two official cuisines witness sumptuous diet by bigwigs and elites from the period of Republican China to the modern era and the change of times, are not eliminated by time, sufficient to demonstrate the charm and characteristics of official cuisine. In today′s highly competitive restaurant industry, it has a place.
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