服裝美學的價值結構:以流行體系與藝術生產論分析; Vaule Strucyure of Costume Aesthetic : analyse with Artistic Production Theory and THe Fashion System

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题名:	服裝美學的價值結構:以流行體系與藝術生產論分析;Vaule Strucyure of Costume Aesthetic : analyse with Artistic Production Theory and THe Fashion System
作者:	黃奕睿;Huang,Yi-Jui
贡献者:	哲學研究所
关键词:	服裝生產體系;價值結構;藝術生產論;政治作用;流行體系;服裝書寫;the social production system of fashion costume;artistic production theory;political effects;the fashion system;written clothing;value structure
日期:	2013-07-30
上传时间:	2013-08-22 12:02:41 (UTC+8)
出版者:	國立中央大學
摘要:	今日的服裝已經不只是生活之中功能性講求的必需品，而同時含有美感判斷的價值，這個價值在服裝本身之生產結構面上是從何而來？又內容為何？本文試圖從離開審美問題的角度去進行回答。在採用的資料與理論上，馬克思以至於Walter Benjamin的藝術生產理論可以從唯物的觀點，從整個服裝生產體系中尋找出線索；以Benjamin來說，他認為在機械複製藝術興起以後，藝術的價值由崇拜轉向至展覽，進而接觸大眾，形成政治作用，在歷史之中那些具有革命性的重要作品，往往也是因為具有歷史上被肯定的政治作用而偉大，尤其在Benjamin那裡，生產技術的提昇是一個被關注的要素。從服裝史之中，可以展現出整個服裝生產體系發展的脈絡，我將從歷史中提出當代的服裝生產體系之模型。另一方面，Roland Barthes的「流行體系」是由書寫服裝闡明作為符號的服裝是如何傳遞其價值內容，並且給予結構性的分析；而書寫服裝作為服裝生產體系的樞紐，在服裝生產體系特殊的上游至下游的特徵傳遞情境下，標示著流行的確立。從兩種理論的相互嵌結，我們可以看到服裝美學的特殊價值結構是如何開展，並且作用在人們日常的生活之中。總的而論，藝術生產論提供了關於服裝生產體系面對大眾時因為政治作用而來的美學肯定，而流行體系作為價值標示的理論，明確的描述了政治作用的內容。 In today, costume is not only essential things with function, but also something about value of beauty. How can we get this value from the social production system of fashion costume? And what is the value? In this text , I want to answer the questions without aesthetic appreciation, so I use the artistic production theory of Karl Heinrich Marx and Walter Benjamin to review the social production system of fashion costume and that’s a materialist view. Benjamin believes since the age of mechanical reproduction, art is lost the value of worship and become the value of exhibition, art is closing people now, this phenomenon let the political effects of art are rising. Benjamin also believes that great artworks are getting right political effects in history, so they become great. Production Technology is important idea for Benjamin, and I find the social production system of fashion costume from history of costume, in history that demonstrate about what is the system, and why the system became.Another way, Roland Barthes’s ‘’The Fashion System’’ is illustrating written clothing as sign of value to pass in the social production system of fashion costume, that is an answer about structure in system of sign. Written clothing is a hub in the social production system of fashion costume. A special phenomenon in the system that feature of fashion costume transfer top-down, and make marks about ‘’what is fashion now’’, if something are fashion, the transfer will be start there. ‘’The Fashion System’’ and artistic production theory are point to explain this phenomenon and finally give a answer about value system of beauty of costume in the public life.In summary, artistic production theory gives us about idea of the political effects, that's means we can affirm the political effects in the social production system of fashion costume and inside public. The Fashion System is a theory about how to mark the value of costume, that's specific and clearly to expound content of political effects in the social production system of fashion costume and how to work. Key word: the social production system of fashion costume, artistic production theory, political effects, the fashion system, written clothing, value structure.
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