| 摘要: | 摘 要 自客家運動崛起後，隨著族群意識的抬頭與鄉土文化的推廣，客家飲食快速地風行於台灣的餐飲界，亦帶動有關客家飲食文化熱烈的探討，並逐漸有蔚為顯學的趨勢。但對於客家飲食文學的研究，仍只是處在起步的階段。因為在客家文學的領域裡，目前較少有系統，以飲食當作研究的主體，深入探究其文化與精神層面的意涵。本論文將以客家飲食文學為研究的範疇，希望能以歷時性的研究，建構出一套飲食文化發展的系譜，並以共時性的研究，梳理出客家飲食文化所呈現社會、文化、政治、經濟各種不同的面向。 本論文共分七章。第一章 緒論。第一節說明研究主題，並闡述研究動機與目的。第二節在界定研究範圍與研究方法。第三節文獻回顧與探討，並著手於收集、分析與探討，有關目前國內客家飲食文學與文化相關議題現有的學術研究。 第二章 客家飲食文化的變遷。主要從台灣客家飲食文學中，探討飲食文化的演變，並建構出一套客家飲食文學發展的系譜，爬梳客家飲食文化發展的脈絡。這涵蓋﹙1﹚唐山過台灣，移民時期以開墾拓荒精神為主的飲食風貌。﹙2﹚日治時期，台灣全面實行皇民化運動後，形成階級不平等的殖民地飲食，因而引起政治、經濟、社會、文化種種的民生問題。﹙3﹚光復初期，受戰後政治紛亂所致，仍維持戰時貧窮的窘況，客家飲食文化亦如台灣各地區一樣，呈現後殖民時期的飲食現象。一九四九年國民政府遷台後，受通婚、雜居等因素的影響，客家飲食文化經歷中國各省飲食文化的融合，逐漸產生質與量的變化。﹙4﹚當代客家飲食文化的發展，在客家運動、族群融合以及國際化多方的衝擊下，客家人的飲食習慣，在後現代多元混血、雜匯的洗禮後，昔日傳統油、香、鹹、陳重口味的飲食風格，已漸漸式微，取而代之是現代人主張以輕食掛帥的健康飲食形態。 第三章 客家山文化的飲食與書寫。本章聚焦於客家族群特有山文化的飲食風格。研究重點在於客家人與山居地景文化的關係，探究在匱乏的地理環境與時空背景下，客家人如何運用天然資源，就地取材、靠山吃山所形塑出獨特的飲食哲學。第四章 台灣客家味。由文學作品裡，探討鹹菜、瓜仔脯、蘿蔔乾、粄等具有客家符碼的食物特質，以及客家人因吃野、吃粗、吃雜所形成山居的飲食模式。客家飲食文化的內涵與信仰、民俗節慶息息相關，由此也發展出族群標幟四炆四炒的特色菜。 第五章 茶文學之研究。茶是客家人主要的經濟作物與文化鮮明的符碼。此章節主要在探究客家飲茶文化的歷史演變，以及具有族群色彩的擂茶、東方美人、酸柑茶與客家人社會文化的淵源，並提出對茶文學各種文體的賞析。 第六章 當代客家飲食文學的書寫。著重於懷舊紀實、客家婦女的飲食意象、從集體記憶到族群認同以及飲食文學傳播之探討。在懷舊紀實中，透過懷念與回味的鄉愁，企圖找回母親「手路菜」的滋味，並經由客家菜的符碼，喚起集體的記憶與族群的認同。客家婦女在飲食上的意象，早期的角色常被要求需具備灶頭鑊尾的能力外，在感情世界裡，則流露出對愛情與親情堅忍不拔的情操。因此，亦建構出傳統客家婦女勤儉持家、吃苦耐勞、犧牲奉獻大地之母的形貌。客籍作家除了藉著飲食的書寫，試圖找回集體的記憶與族群情感認同的凝聚力，也透過飲食文學的鋪陳與傳播， 積極地行銷並擴張客家飲食多元的風貌，並呈現客家飲食豐富的文化內涵。 第七章 總結。歸納各篇的論述與心得。弱裔族群的客家人，早期移民的飲食文化，在面臨山居匱乏的困境，靠著自給自足與惜福的觀念，在「資源回收與再生」的變通下，反而開展出客家飲食文化許多具有獨特性的飲食。但在強調國際化的今日，客家飲食文化經後現代多元的水乳交融後，自然而然，由傳統油、香、鹹、陳的飲食原貌，蛻變成味蕾具有強烈包容性的多元樣貌；並開展飲食文化另一頁的新紀元。關鍵詞：客家文學 、飲食文學、山文化、客家茶、後現代飲食、客家婦女AbstractAlong with the rise of ethnic consciousness and the promotion of local culture after the Hakka movement was widely spread, Hakka diet quickly became very opular in Taiwan，s catering industry. More and more people talked about the Hakka diet culture enthusiastically. Hakka diet slowly turned into a well-liked trend. Nevertheless, researches regarding Hakka dietary literature are still in the starting stage. It is because there are not many researches in the field of Hakka literature that use diet as the main research topic and discuss the implications of the cultural and spiritual aspects systematically. Therefore, Hakka dietary literature is the research scope of the thesis. It is hoped that the family tree of the development of Hakka diet culture can be developed by means of diachronic research and that the social, cultural, political and economic aspects represented by Hakka diet culture can be sorted out by means of synchronic research. The thesis is divided into seven chapters. Chapter 1: Introduction. Section 1 plains the research topic and describes the research motivation and purpose. Section 2 efines the research scope and method. Section 3 gives literature review and discussion while working on the collection, analysis and discussion of existed academic researches regarding issues related to Hakka dietary literature and diet culture in Taiwan.Chapter 2: Changes in Hakka Diet Culture. The changes in diet culture are discussed using Hakka dietary literature from Taiwan and the family tree of the development of Hakka dietary literature is established to sort out the context for the development. The Chapter covers: (1) From Tangshan﹙唐山﹚ to Taiwan – The diet style during the immigration period was highly related to the land reclamation situation; (2) Japanese Colonial Period﹙日治時代﹚ – After the Kominka Movement﹙皇民化運動﹚ was implemented in Taiwan, the colony diets that varied in different classes were formed which in turn led to many livelihood Issues in terms of policy, economy, society and culture; (3) Early Revival Period﹙光復初期﹚ – Due to political chaos after the war, the difficult poverty situation was continued from the wartime. Similar to other diet culture in Taiwan, the Hakka diet culture showed the post-colonial diet phenomenon. After the Nationalist Government moved to taiwan in 1949, the Hakka diet culture underwent integration with other diet cultures in provinces in China due to intermarriage and cohabitation which led to gradual changes in the quality and quantity; (4) Development of Contemporary Hakka Diet Culture﹙當代客家飲食的發展﹚ – Under the impacts of Hakka Movement, ethnic integration and internationalization, Hakka people had lightened their traditional eating habit of having oily, aromatic, salty and rich flavor after mixing with other ethnic groups in the post-modern days. They replaced the old eating habit with the light meal-oriented healthy dietary pattern claimed by modern people. Chapter 3: Diet and Literature of Hakka Mountainous Culture. This chapter focuses on the diet style of Hakka people’s unique mountainous culture. The research point lies in the relationship between Hakka people and mountainous culture and discusses the way Hakka people used natural resources to make meals and created the unique diet philosophy in the geological environment and time where everything was in shortage. Chapter 4: Taiwanese Hakka Flavor. Literature is used to discuss the food traits of salted vegetable, pickled cucumber, dried radish and rice noodle which have Hakka symbols and the mountainous dietary pattern formed by Hakka people eating wild animals, common vegetables and whatever that was edible. The classical four stew and four fried dishes that best represent the Hakka cuisine was developed as the Hakka diet culture is closely related to their religious belief and folk festival, Chapter 5: Research on Tea Literature. Tea is Hakka people’s main cash crop and significant cultural symbol. This chapter focuses on exploring the changes in the history of Hakka people’s tea drinking culture and the relationship between Hakka people’s society and culture and ethnic-presenting Lei Cha, Oriental Beauty and Sour Orange Tea while explicating the genre of tea literature. Chapter 6: Writing about Modern Hakka Dietary Literature. This chapter focuses on the discussion on nostalgic documentary, Hakka women’s dietary image, collective memory and ethnic identity as well as dietary literature promotion. In nostalgic documentary, the flavor of private home dish was attempted to be found by remembering and thinking about home and the collective memory and ethnic identity were called upon via the symbols of Hakka dishes. In terms of Hakka women’s dietary image, they were often requested to have the ability to cook in the old days. Moreover, in the world called love, they showed unflinching sentiment for the better half and the family. As resulted, the image of traditional Hakka women being industrious, thrifty, hardworking and sacrificing was also established. In addition to trying to find the cohesiveness of collective memory and ethnic identity by writing about food, Hakka writers also market and expand the diverse aspects of Hakka diet via the stories and the promotion of dietary literature. Moreover, Hakka writers also show the rich cultural content of Hakka diet in their articles. Chapter 7: Conclusion. The discussions and afterthoughts of all chapters are concluded in this chapter. In terms of the diet culture during the early immigration period, Hakka people, who were said to be the minor ethnic group, relied on themselves and the idea of appreciating what one has under the difficult situation where everything was in shortage while developing many unique dishes for the Hakka diet culture using the concept of recycling and reusing. Moreover, in the modern days where internationalization is highly emphasized, the Hakka diet has changed from having oily, aromatic, salty and rich flavor to having tolerant taste buds for many other cuisines after mixing with other diet cultures in the post-modern days. The new era for Hakka diet culture has thus began. Keywords: Hakka literature, Dietary literature, Mountainous culture, Hakka tea, Post-modern diet, Hakka women |
